Service/Beskrivning/Bilder av Weber 32/36 DGAV förgasare

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Bilder från en gammal rep-bok med tillhörande text.

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En grundlig bildserie med engelska instruktioner för hur man gör en total genomgång av en 32/36 DGAV.

Bör påpekas att exemplaret hör till en Toyota 1300- motor utan närmare uppgifter, men förgasaren lär väl inte avvika i någon funktion mot Pintos (bestyckning osv omtalas ändå inte). Sidan är lite nerklippt i utseendet p g a att originalsajten lagts ner och vad som gick att finna var en autosparad kopia hos Internet Archive men syns vara komplett i allt väsentligt.

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GUIDE : Rebuilding a Weber 32/36 DGAV Carb
Due to popular demand, OK one (probably drunk) request by Finnon on facebook , here's a carb stripdown guide

I found it took me about 4-5 hours from start to finish but that includes a lot of time taking photos. Take your time, be methodical and it's not too bad at all to work on one of these, this was my first go

Step 1 - Remove the two retaining nuts on top of the air filter cover, 8m probably. Note that this is with an aftermarket air filter as used on most kit cars

Step 2 - Remove the cover to expose the top of the carb

Step 3 - Pull the air filter upwards evenly to clear the studs

Step 4 - Now remove the four 8mm nuts and washers, carefully take them away and store them so they can't fall anywhere they shouldn't (order is everything when doing this, keep things neat and tidy)

Step 5 - Now you can remove the air filter base plate from the carb body

Step 6 - There are 6 pan head screws, use a big flatblade screwdriver and apply a lot of downward force onto the screw head as they are quite soft. Crack off all 6 but don't remove them

Step 7 - Now slacken the fuel feed line jubilee clip, be prepared for a bit of petrol coming out

Step 8 - If you have a DGAV (automatic choke) as opposed to a DGV, also slacken off the clips for the inlet/outlet to the choke. These are coolant lines so, again, expect a bit of fluid loss

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Fortsättning...

GUIDE : Rebuilding a Weber 32/36 DGAV Carb
Step 9 - If you are trying to minimise loss of coolant/fuel, you can plug the lines with an old bolt as shown

Step 10 - Now remove the vacuum advance to the distributor, this simply pulls off but might require a little twist

Step 11 - The next stage is to slacken then remove each of the nuts holding the carb onto the manifold (13mm spanner not socket required). Don't forget the washers too

Step 12 - If there is a circlip fitted to the choke butterfly linkage then remove with pliers (I didn't have one), then use a flatblade screwdriver to disconnect the choke linkage by simply easing the lever off the stud (second picture shows it disconnected)

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GUIDE : Rebuilding a Weber 32/36 DGAV Carb
Step 13 - Give the carb a bit of a wiggle to break the gasket seal on the manifold

Step 14 - Now the throttle linkage needs to be disconnected, use a flatblade screwdriver to ease the plastic bush (circled on the left) out and allow the rod with the right angle bend to move. Hold onto the spring retainer circled on the right and ease the bar out. Remove the clip once the rod is out and place it below the linkage as shown in the third picture

Step 15 - Now slide the carb off the studs of the manifold

Step 16 - Remove the 6 pan head screws we cracked off earlier in step 6

Step 17 - You can now split the carb in half as shown

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GUIDE : Rebuilding a Weber 32/36 DGAV Carb
Step 18 - At this stage I went to my clean area (kitchen table!) I recommend you get a load of A4 white paper and work on that, as it gets dirty just put another sheet down and work on top. It gives good visibility and helps you keep track of everything well) and gives a nice light background for photos as a side effect

Step 19 - Check the baseplate of the carb, you should have markings telling you exactly what it is - mine is a 32/36 DGAV

Step 20 - We will start on the top half of the carb, handle with care and turn it upside down to expose the floats (the black plastic pieces)

Step 21 - Push the pin out that holds the floats in situ, it may need a very light tap with a drift but mine just pushed out

Step 22 - With the pin out you can remove and store the floats somewhere safe (keep everything laid out in the order you remove it)

Step 23 - Note the orientation of the needle valve (the brass piece) and how it hooks onto the floats. The hook is called the 'return hook'

Step 24 - You can peel away the old gasket and, if necessary, use a gasket scraper where it has stuck (or a flatblade screwdriver but careful not to score the metal face)

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GUIDE : Rebuilding a Weber 32/36 DGAV Carb
Step 25 - Now onto the power valve diaphragm, a known cause of excessive fuel consumption but a part you have to buy separately to the carb rebuild kit (for £20!), worth having one if you're in any doubt. To test it, press the spring (picture 1) and cover the small hole (picture 2). The vacuum is supposed to be strong enough to hold the spring down but even with my brand new valve this wasn't the case; there was, however, a substantial vacuum created with my new part and absolutely none with the old one! If you have no vacuum you probably need to do the power valve, if not you can skip it

Step 26 - Removing the old power valve diaphragm is just a case of removing the three screws shown (picture 1) then ease the diaphragm to the side to crack the seal.

Step 27 - Compare old with new, definitely needed replacing! Note the new valve has a metal retainer fitted, do not remove this until you are ready to fit the valve

Step 28 - Now use a 19mm socket/spanner to crack off the big brass nut next to the fuel inlet tube, unscrew this completely

Step 29 - Inside you will find a fuel filter, mine was quite worn

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GUIDE : Rebuilding a Weber 32/36 DGAV Carb
Step 30 - Use a 10mm socket to remove the seat for the needle valve on the floats you removed in step 21-23, don't forget the washer

Step 31 - Start scrubbing, use carb cleaner and a scotch pad to clean up the housing, at the very least remove any surface dirt and give a general tidy up, you can go to town if you're that way inclined

Step 32 - Next we move onto the bottom half of the carb, clear out any fuel that was in the float bowl (shown on the left of the pic with some brown sediment which is a sign of poor fuel quality)

Step 33 - Remove the two screws in the top face of the carb, these are the primary (at the top) and secondary (at the bottom with the screwdriver fitted) air corrector jets

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GUIDE : Rebuilding a Weber 32/36 DGAV Carb
Step 34 - Now remove the 'emulsification tubes', I did this by inserting a thin screwdriver then pushed it to one side whilst wriggling upwards, one was particularly stubborn!

Step 35 - Now remove the primary main jet from the float bowl which also just requires a flatblade screwdriver and, adjacent to it, the secondary main jet. Make sure you keep all these bits and pieces in the right order so you can reassemble them where they came from!

Step 36 - Remove the idling jet and O ring from between the choke and accelerator pump with a screwdriver. Note the jet is actually the lower part and the upper part is the holder

Step 37 - Now the accelerator pump jet needs to come off, there is a single big screw to remove and it can be a pain. I ended up using a large gasket scraper as shown in the first picture to apply loads of downward force and not destroy the head of the screw. Once the screw is cracked off, a normal screwdriver can be used to fully remove it (picture 2).
Then you can remove the screw, washer, jet and copper washer as shown in pictures 3 and 4

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Fortsättning...

GUIDE : Rebuilding a Weber 32/36 DGAV Carb
Step 38 - You can now remove the 'auxiliary venturis' which deliver the fuel into the airflow path, these just pull out as shown. Note the orientation of the hole to allow fuel to flow into the venturi, don't try to fit them back to front so the fuel can't get in!

Step 39 - Move on to the full power needle valve assembly at the bottom of the float chamber, the usual flatblade screwdriver removal

Step 40 - The accelerator pump is the next job, remove the 4 screws holding the cover in place and unhook the lever arm to remove this

Step 41 - Now remove the diaphragm for the pump, this should simply pull away

Step 42 - Finally, pull the spring from its seat and store this with the rest of the assembly

Step 43 - With the accelerator pump removed, the only major component left on the periphery is the choke - there are 3 screws that act as a collar to hold the choke in place (called the 'thermostat assembly locking ring'). Once you slightly remove two, you can rotate the housing to get to the third. Remove all three screws and the assembly should come away as shown.

Note the coil is a bi-metallic spring which expands and contracts as it heats and cools respectively. You should see from the second picture that it hooks onto the lever protruding from the choke housing (known as the 'auto choke shaft and lever assembly') and will actuate the choke butterflies as the spring heats/cools from the coolant flowing through the housing

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Fortsättning...

GUIDE : Rebuilding a Weber 32/36 DGAV Carb
Step 44 - Now you can remove the two long choke fixing screws

Step 45 - Then pull the choke assembly away completely. Note you have to line up the key in the rod/lever which is circled to remove the assembly. Make sure you are keeping everything clean and ordered

Step 46 - You can now remove the 3 screws holding the choke diaphragm cover in place

Step 47 - Remove the cover and you will expose a spring and diaphragm, remove these and keep them safe

Step 48 - Slide the diaphragm and bar out and add this to the collection of parts

Step 49 - Onto the throttle linkage, use a 12mm spanner to remove the shallow nut ('throttle shaft linkage nut'), this shouldn't be too tight

Step 50 - Now remove the locking tab from the shaft

Step 51 - You can now remove the U shaped bracket called the 'throttle valve control lever'

Step 52 - Then the 'washer for loose lever' which has a square key in it. The loose lever is exactly that, if you tighten it you won't be able to open the throttle butterflies

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GUIDE : Rebuilding a Weber 32/36 DGAV Carb
Step 53 - Then the loose lever assembly can be pulled off too (note you need to unhook the spring)

Step 54 - Next is the loose lever bushing which also simply slides off

Step 55 - You can remove the other end of the loose lever spring at this stage

Step 56 - The 'primary throttle control lever' and 'bush retaining spring' can now be removed too

Step 57 - Getting the throttle plate/valve screws out can be tricky, expect to need a lot of force when doing this. Slacken both screws completely then open the throttle shaft (by rotating the end of the shaft) to allow you to remove the discs

Step 58 - Unhook the return spring from the end of the shaft

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GUIDE : Rebuilding a Weber 32/36 DGAV Carb
Step 59 - Now you should be able to push out the throttle shaft (this is the primary shaft as it is the primary venturi that opens up when you depress the throttle by a small amount) but it might need some 'encouragement' with a hammer, gently tap only though if required

Step 60 - Next we do the secondary shaft, remove the fixing nut (12mm) and spring washer

Step 61 - Pull the secondary throttle control lever off the shaft

Step 62 - Next remove the bush retaining spring

Step 63 - Remove the butterfly screws for the secondary shaft, again, they will be tight. Then take the disc out and store safely

Step 64 - Remove the shaft from the carb body

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Fortsättning...

GUIDE : Rebuilding a Weber 32/36 DGAV Carb
Step 65 - You have pretty well stripped the carb at this stage so admire all your collection of bits to clean up and restore

Step 66 - Split the base plate from the base of the carb because this gasket will need to be replaced, it may need some cleaning up if it is anything like mine was

Step 67 - Get busy with the cleaning materials again

Step 68 - Don't forget to remove the bushes for the throttle shafts if you left them behind

Step 69 - Clean up all the screws, jets, tubes, shafts etc to get rid of any debris/material

Step 70 - Remove the idling jet and holder plus O ring. Replace this with the new jet and O ring from your service kit then refit

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Fortsättning...

GUIDE : Rebuilding a Weber 32/36 DGAV Carb
Step 71 - Remove the old idle mixture adjustment screw and spring and refit with a new one from your carb rebuild kit

Step 72 - Replace the O ring for the auto choke unit tube

Step 73 - If you fancy a look at your 'pump discharge blanking needle', this is where it is at!

Step 74 - Refit your throttle shaft and valves, use new bushes. You may find a little oil on the shaft helps

Step 75 - Line up the valves with the shaft to refit the screws - test opening and closing before tightening the screws to get the perfect fit

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Fortsättning...

GUIDE : Rebuilding a Weber 32/36 DGAV Carb
Step 76 - Refit spring, lever, washer, spring washer and nut to the secondary shaft

Step 77 - Nip up the 12mm nut

Step 78 - Check for wear, clean and refit the primary shaft next

Step 79 - Line up the return spring with the hole in the carb as shown

Step 80 - Once the shaft is fitted, use a screwdriver to hook the spring over and return the throttle to the closed position