Service/Beskrivning/Bilder av Weber 32/36 DGAV förgasare

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GUIDE : Rebuilding a Weber 32/36 DGAV Carb
Step 81 - Refit shaft retaining bush, butterfly, spring, lever, spring, loose lever bush and loose lever
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step81c.png
step81d.png
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Step 82 - Hook the spring back in place
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step82b.png

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GUIDE : Rebuilding a Weber 32/36 DGAV Carb
Step 83 - Finish with washer and lever then fit the locking tab and nut
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Step 84 - Check everything operates as it should, ensure both butterflies are opening smoothly etc
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Step 85 - Next, the choke mechanism - remove the cover plate, it simply pulls off
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Step 86 - Slide the new diaphragm in place and make sure the mechanism is able to actuate freely
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Step 87 - Line up the diaphragm holes, fit the spring and tighten the cover
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Step 88 - Refit the housing cover aligning the dowel as highlighted
step88.png

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GUIDE : Rebuilding a Weber 32/36 DGAV Carb
Step 89 - Make sure everything moves freely before refitting
step89.png
Step 90 - Refit the two long choke fixing screws (don't forget to put the keyed 'fast idle control rod' in place before fitment)
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Step 91 - Clean up the outer housing of any residue coolant then loop the coil over the choke actuator rod as shown in the second picture
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Step 92 - Refit the outer locking ring with a new gasket from your rebuild kit then tighten in place but not fully (you will need to adjust this later)
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Step 93 - Pop the pump loading spring into the accelerator pump housing on the carb
step93.png
Step 94 - Fit your new diaphragm against the spring
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step94b.png

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GUIDE : Rebuilding a Weber 32/36 DGAV Carb
Step 95 - Drop a couple of screws in the pump cover assembly
step95.png
Step 96 - Lower the cover over the spring/diaphragm and gently tighten the two screws. Then fit the remaining two screws and tighten
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Step 97 - Fit a new copper washer from your rebuild kit to the full power valve and refit into the float bowl
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Step 98 - Put the auxiliary venturis back in place (careful to align the hole in the right direction as shown in the second picture)
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Step 99 - The venturis shouldn't rattle, if you find they are loose then tap them with a flatblade screwdriver or similar punch to seat them and make sure they don't move
step99a.png
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step99c.png

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GUIDE : Rebuilding a Weber 32/36 DGAV Carb
Step 100 - Fit a new copper washer (in the set of course) and replace the accelerator pump jet. Refit another copper washer then tighten the pump delivery valve assembly down (new brass bolt from the service kit should be fitted)
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Step 101 - Refit the emulsification tubes, these should just drop in gently and be pressed home
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Step 102 - Fit the air corrector jets and tighten them down
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Step 103 - Now return the main jets to the float bowl and tighten them
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step103b.png

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GUIDE : Rebuilding a Weber 32/36 DGAV Carb
Step 104 - Using a new needle valve seat and washer from your service kit, fit the float valve seat into the top of the carb
Step104a.jpg
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Step 105 - Fit a new fuel filter from the kit into the fuel inlet housing then torque the nut up with a 19mm socket/spanner
Step105a.jpg
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Step 106 - Time to fit the new power valve, press the spring as shown in the first picture. Then peel back the diaphragm slightly (picture 2) to access the retainer - this can just slide out. Maintain pressure on the spring so you don't damage the valve and place into the top of the carb (picture 3), it is easy if you drop the screws in first as shown
Step106a.jpg
Step106b.jpg
Step106c.jpg
Step 107 - Tighten the 3 screws evenly and check operation as per step 25
Step107.jpg

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GUIDE : Rebuilding a Weber 32/36 DGAV Carb
Step 108 - Now clean and check your floats for cracks (picture 1) then attach your new needle valve (picture 2) using the hook as shown in picture 3.
Step108a.jpg
Step108b.jpg
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Step 109 - Move the floats over to the top of the carb and line up the new needle valve/seat to fit them
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Step 110 - Refit the float fixing pin
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Step 111 - Hold the top of the carb vertically (when installed it is horizontal) and measure the float clearance, it should be 35mm for plastic floats (41mm for metal) between the top of the float and the face of the carb. The first picture shows the clearance being measure but note the carb top was lying horizontal for ease of taking a picture - it should be vertical
Step111.jpg
Step 112 - If you need to adjust the float level, bend the metal tab that the needle valve uses as shown in the picture
Step112.jpg
Step 113 - Fit a new gasket to seal the top/bottom halves of the carb
Step113.jpg
Step 114 - Place the top of the carb onto the bottom, ensure the floats sit in the chamber properly and that the choke lever is routed correctly (picture 2)
Step114a.jpg
Step114b.jpg

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GUIDE : Rebuilding a Weber 32/36 DGAV Carb
Step 115 - Use a flatblade screwdriver to join the choke rod to the butterfly valves
Step115.jpg
Step 116 - Fit the new circlip from the kit (picture 1) using a pair of pliers (picture 2) and a screwdriver to push it on
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Step 117 - Fit the new base gasket
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Step 118 - Tighten the 6 screws to the top of the carb and refit on the studs for the inlet manifold, once installed you can go through the process of setting up which involves:
Step118a.jpg
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1. Setting the chokes - you need to manually rotate the choke housing such that it closes the butterfly when cold then nip up the three screws that lock it in place. Be very careful if using the 12mm bolt on the outside of the choke housing to rotate it as these are notorious for breaking and difficult to replace
2. Very slowly turn the mixture screw until you feel it start to bottom out (that's the gold shiny screw in the first picture). Once it bottoms out, back off about one and a quarter turns
3. Adjust the idle speed screw (picture 2) until it hits the throttle lever. Once it makes contact, keep turning another half a turn
4. Fire up the car and make it get warm, you may need to rev it and/or apply choke manually by putting your hand over the air inlet
5. Once warm, turn the idle mixture screw (from step 2) until you get the fastest idle speed possible. This should only be +/- 1 turn on a freshly built carb
6. Now you have the fastest idle from the mixture screw, use the idle speed screw (picture 2) to drop the revs below 1k
7. Repeat step 5 to find the fastest idle possible
8. Finally, run at ~2,000 RPM for 10 seconds then let the car idle. Snap the throttle wide open and see if there is any hesitation. If there is, turn the idling jet screw out 1/16th of a turn then repeat step 8 until the hesitation goes

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